Notice

All of these patterns belong to me. They are here for your personal use, but please do not post them to other websites. Instead, link back to them.

Notice

If you make any of these items to sell, you cannot claim the design as your own. You can claim that you handmade the item, but you must credit me, Julie Hicks, as the designer.

Friday, September 09, 2005

Just to let people know

I've turned on the word verification in my comments. What this means is that anyone leaving a comment has to pass the word verification before their comment will be posted-it's similar to the word verification you do when you create a blog. This cuts out on automatic comment spam.

I didn't know this existed until I posted at Crochetville about getting 3 spam comments in one of my blog entries.

To enable this, go to your Dashboard>Settings>Comments then click yes for word verification.

I would rather go this extra step in comments on anyone's blog than have them get spam.

Monday, May 30, 2005

Crocheted Fish Motif

This thread at Crochetville got me to thinking and I came up with a crocheted fish motif.

This pattern is untested, I've only made one and wrote the pattern as I went so if anyone makes this and finds an error please let me know.

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Pattern © 5/30/2005 Julie Hicks

Crocheted Fish Motif

Materials:

Small amounts of worsted weight yarn-app 1 oz for each

fish, maybe less.

Crochet hook size H

Gauge: Fish measures 10½" from nose to tail
___________________________________________________________

Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across-6 sc, ch 1,

turn

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: Inc in first and last sc, ch

1, turn

Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15: Sc in each sc across, ch 1,

turn. At the end of row 15 you should have 20 sc.

Rows 16, 17: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 18, 20, 22, 24: Dec over the first 2 and last 2 sc

across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 19, 21, 23, 25: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn. At

the end of Row 25 you should have 12 sc.

Row 26: Sc in first 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 5

sc, ch 1, turn-11 sc

Rows 27, 29, 31: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 28: Sc in first 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 5

sc, ch 1, turn-10 sc

Row 30: Sc in first 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 4

sc, ch 1, turn-9 sc.

Rows 31, 32, 33: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46: Inc in first and last sc,

ch 1, turn.

Rows 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47: Sc in each sc across, at

the end of Row 47, finish off.

Happy crocheting.

Edit: They don't quite tesselate right so a friend made some improvements, I'll get them up as soon as possible. Thank you, Kahud

Friday, April 22, 2005

Shortie Sleeper



Note: I've had questions about the hat and booties-did I have the patterns for them? The patterns for those I found at Crochet Pattern Central

The bootie pattern seems to have been moved or removed so I don't know where that is anymore. Crochet Pattern Central does have tons more bootie and hat links so you can pick ones you like. The hat pattern is here if you want to do it and it is super-easy. (edited April 1, 2007)


Pattern © 4/22/2005 Julie Hicks

Baby Sport Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart)-between 3-4 ozs

Crochet hook sizes H & K (I used Boye aluminum)

4 small buttons

Gauge: Size K hook-5 sc & 7 rows = 1-1/2"

Size: Newborn-3 months

Note: Try not to hold your tension too tightly.

Note: Even rows are the right side.
_________________________________________________________

Begin at Yoke:

ch 45 with larger size hook

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 6 ch. 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 8
ch, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 10 ch, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 8 ch, 3 sc in next ch, sc in last 7 ch

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 8 sc

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 9 sc

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 10 sc

Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 11 sc

Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc in next 13 sc, skip next 18 sc, sc in next 22 sc,
skip next 18 sc, sc in last 13 sc-48 sc

Rows 12-30: sc in each sc. At the end of Row 30 join with a sl st to first
st of the row to close the garment. You will now be working in rounds. 48 sc

Next 4 Rnds: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc around, join with sl st to beg sc.

Note: It's easy to miscount working these 4 rnds, make sure you count your
sts and that you still have 48 at the end.

Crotch and left leg: Right side facing, ch 8, skip 23 sc, sl st in next sc,
ch 1, sc in same sp, sc across ch-8 and back around left leg to beg sc. Do not join,
mark beg of rnd with st marker-you should have 32 sc.

Next rnd: *sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, rep from * around-28 sc

Next rnd: work even.

Next rnd: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, rep from * around-24 sc

Next 6 rnds: work even in the round, do not join rounds. Sl st in next st, end off.

Right leg: With back of sleeper facing, attach yarn with a sl st in same sc
as crotch, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc around to front, sc in free lps
of crotch. You should have 32 sc.

Finish leg in same manner as left leg.

Front trim: Using smaller hook, attach yarn with a sl st in bottom of left
front 1 row up, ch 1, sc in ends of rows all the way to neckline, 3 sc in
corner, sc around neckline, 3 sc in corner, sc in end of each row to 1 row
before bottom. Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc around, 3 sc in corners. When going
down left front, after the corner, sc in next sc, ch 4 for button loop, *sc
in next 8 sc, ch 4, rep from * twice more, sc in each sc to end, end off.

Sew buttons opposite buttonholes

Hide all loose ends.

If you want to make this a long-legged sleeper, simply continue sc evenly
around until leg is long enough then sew or crochet bottom seam together.

Same for sleeves, if you want long sleeves, attach yarn at underarm and sc
evenly around until sleeve is long enough.

Abbreviations:

ch----chain
st----stitch
sl st-slip stitch
sc----single crochet
rnd---round
beg---begin(ning)
rep---repeat

Tuesday, April 19, 2005

Hello

I made this blog to post original patterns on. Sometimes I get an idea in my head about something and pick up a hook and start crocheting and I thought I might want to share some of my patterns with others.

All patterns in this blog are © to me, Julie Hicks. You're free to use them for your own use as gifts, donations, etc but please do not add them to any website. Link to this blog if you like.

Thank you very much.

Jules