Wooly Wristwarmers

I just came up with this and only have one of the pair done but I like it so much that I'm going ahead and posting. They are ambidextrous-you can wear them on either hand.

Materials:

Yarn and hook of your choice-you also will need a hook two sizes smaller (to work ribbed cuff)

Gauge-There is none-make to fit.

To determine your starting ch: With your chosen yarn and hook, make a gauge swatch in sc to determine your stitch gauge. Measure around the palm of your hand and multiply your stitch gauge by this number-this will be your starting ch.

To determine ch for thumbhole: Measure around the base of your thumb and multiply by your stitch gauge-this should give you the # of chs for thumbhole-you can always add or subtract if need be by trying it on and seeing if the hole is comfortable for your thumb.

Note: I am turning rnds for a couple of reasons-

1: It keeps the side seam straight.
2: It adds a nice texture to the glove.

Note: The larger hook is used on the thumb ribbing and top ribbing since the glove is made to fit and doesn't need to be snugged up, and your fingers do need wiggle room. If you find that it's too loose, just go down one hook size for those ribbings.

Instructions:

Note: I am giving the instructions for Lion Wool and a J hook-which is what I used. This wristwarmer should fit an average woman's hand. I used an H hook for the cuff ribbing-this brings the bottom of the glove snug with the bottom of the hand.

With larger hook ch 22, join to form ring, being careful not to twist ch. If this does not go around your hand, add more chs.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with sl st to first sc. 22 sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc.

Rnds 3-6: Rep rnd 2.

Rnd 7: Ch 10 (if this is too tight for your thumb, add more chs), turn, sc in each sc around and in each of next 10 chs of ch-10, join with sl st to first sc. 32 sc

Rnds 8-17: Rep Rnd 2 over 32 sc-glove should just come to the bottom of your hand. Do not end off.

Note: If you find my instructions for the ribbing to be confusing, just go to Dot's

She has a tutorial with pictures, just remember to ch 15 for your cuff-or ch for whatever length you want yours to be, 15 will give you about a 3" cuff.

Cuff Ribbing: Change to smaller hook and ch 15, sc in second ch from hook and next 13 chs, sl st in bottom of glove in same sc as last join and sl st in next sc of glove, turn. 14 sc. Note: Always skip these two sl sts when going back the other way.

Next row: Sc in BLO of next 14 sc of ribbing, ch 1, turn

Next row: Sc in BLO of each of next 14 sc, sl st in next 2 sc of glove, turn.

Rep these two rows until you get around entire bottom of glove. Sl st opening closed. If you desire longer ribbing just add more chs to starting ch.

Thumb hole ribbing: With larger hook, attach yarn to first unused lp of ch-10, ch 4 and work ribbing over around thumb hole same as cuff ribbing. Ribbing will be 3 sc wide

Top ribbing: With larger hook, attach yarn to any unused lp of starting ch at top of glove, ch 4, work ribbing same as cuff ribbing. Hide all ends, turn glove inside out and wear. Ribbing will be 3 sc wide.

Note: If you want washability, any soft acrylic will work-such as Caron Simply Soft.

Abbreviations used:

Ch(s): Chain(s)
St(s): Stitch(es)
Sc: Single Crochet
BLO: Back Loop Only
Lp(s): Loop(s)
Rep: Repeat
Sl St: Slip Stitch

This pattern © Julie Hicks November 9, 2006

You can make one hard copy for your personal use. I would rather you didn't sell the item but make for gifts or for charity.

Finger Puppet

These little finger puppets were knitted by a woman named Gladys Wilson, who started knitting them in 1988 and has made more than 50,000. She donates them to hospitals mostly and the kids love them. She knitted them from memory and never had a written pattern until a story was done about her back in February 2006 for Mature Living magazine. So many people wrote in wanting the pattern that Ms. Wilson graciously sat down and wrote it out. Christian Gregory tested the pattern and tweaked it and I'm putting it here for anyone else who wants to make these for donations to hospitals, children's homes, etc.

This is not my pattern, I'm just reposting it here for others-please do not make these items for sale.

Materials

WW yarn in two colors-washable and dryable
6-ply cotton embroidery thread in appropriate colors, such as red for mouth, black for nose, abn black and blue for eyes
Knitting needles size 7
large-eyed needle
scissors
1" wide piece of cardboard.

Instructions

Cast on 14 stitches with dark color:

Knit 8 rows

Change to lighter color for face:

Knit one row
Purl one row
Repeat for 10 rows stockinette stitch
Change back to first color:
Knit 3 rows
Purl 1 row
Knit 1 row
Purl 1 row
Knit two together across row-there will be 7 stitches remaining on needle.

Cut yarn approximately 8 " long.
Thread yarn on needle and run back through seven stitches.
Remove from needle.

Finishing

Make the face: Lay puppet piece out flat. Find approximate center. Use embroider thread to stitch eyes, nose, and mouth. Follow the pattern, placing features like in the picture.

Alternate face (my own modification): Using the graph, duplicate stitch the face in the appropriate colors. Graph shows the light stitches only . You could also work the face in as you're knitting if you like but I think it would be easier to just duplicate stitch the face in.

Place front sides together and sew down the back of knitted piece to make a tube.

Pom-pom: Using both colors of yarn, wrap ten times around a 1-inch piece of cardboard. Tie off one end; cut the other side. Fluff and trim into ball shape. Sew to top of finger puppet for hat.

Quick and Cushy Potholder

This pattern uses Helena's Potholder Stitch so I really won't be copyrighting the pattern since it's basically all that stitch.

Materials: One ball (2 oz) Peaches and Cream, Sugar and Cream or any other comparable WW cotton yarn.

Crochet hook size J
_________________________

Ch 25 and work the above potholder stitch until the piece is roughly square. End off and hide any stray ends.

It should take less than a ball of yarn and you might even get two potholders out of one ball. If you were going to make a lot of them for gifts and such then you might want to invest in a 1 pound cone.

Doubleknit potholder

This is a great way to practice doubleknitting. Doubleknitting has been around at least since Hoover's time- see Hoover blanket-but I would practice with a potholder first. You really don't need to make a wide border for potholders but can make the whole thing in doubleknit and it will make a nice thick potholder.

Materials: WW yarn in two different colors, straight knitting needls size 6-I'm using RHSS but you can also use S&C cotton and also get a nice thick dishcloth.

Crochet hook if you want to make a loop in corner.

Gauge is unimportant.

Note, try not to twist your yarns together while knitting except at the beg of rows (where you'll twist them tog once to keep edges together), with practice you can do this quite easily.
-------------------------------------------------------

There are several ways to cast on for this, I like two ways: With the darker color, CO double the number of sts you'll need for your project (30 would be a good size so CO 60)

Alternate method: Holding both colors together CO 30 sts-making sure your colors always fall the same way-dark/light or light/dark

Start your doubleknitting-holding both yarns tog, K the first st with your first color, bring both yarns to the front and P the next st with your CC, bring both yarns to the back, K the next st-always alternating colors. Continue in this manner to the end of row.

Next row, you will be K the sts you P in the prev row and P the K sts. Twist your yarns tog once before starting.

Continue in this manner until potholder/dishcloth is the size you want. BO by K2tog across-still using both yarns. At the end of the BO insert crochet hook in the st left and ch 1, sc evenly around potholder. When you reach the beg of your border ch 10 and ss in first sc. End off and tuck in all loose ends.

If you've done this correctly you will have a potholder/dishcloth that is one color on one side and another color on the other. When you get accustomed to this method you can start working patterns into your project which, when finished, will be opposite images of each other on each side. To work stripes you would alternate your colors every few rows.

I will have a picture up as soon as I finish the potholder I'm working on.

Meanwhile, check out this free pattern from KnittingHelp Hot Pad

It shows what each side will look like when it's finished.

Peace, Be Still Shawl

Materials:
Joann Sensations Rainbow Boucle-1 skein Dark Blue
Knitting needles size 10½, 29" length
Yarn needle for weaving in loose ends

Gauge:Unimportant

Note: Slip the first stitch of each row as if to K for a smoother edge.
Note: Row 1 of Pattern Rows is RS

Pattern Rows:
1: K
2: K 3, P to last 3, K 3
3: K 3, (KFB of next st) 3 times, *(K2TOG) 6 times, (KFB of next st) 6 times, rep from * across to last 9 sts, (KFB of next st) 3 times, K 3.
4: Rep row 2.

Directions:

CO 114 sts and K 6 rows for gart st border.

Work Pattern Rows until shawl is the length desired, K 6 rows for gart st border and BO in K.

Using yarn needle, work loose ends in on WS of shawl.

Abbreviations:
CO..........Cast On
BO..........Bind Off
gart st....garter stitch
K.............Knit
P.............Purl
KFB........Knit (in) Front (and) Back
K2TOG..Knit 2 Together
St(s).......Stitch(es)
WS..........Wrong Side
RS...........Right Side

KopyKat Sea of Tranquility

Since none of the feather and fan patterns I ran across online were written right I decided to sit down with some yarn and needles and come up with my own. It's very similar to the Feather and Fan Dishcloth. The only differences are I fixed Row 6 of the pattern and added a couple of more knit rows after that because that's the way I remember the one I had. I know it's not an exact copy of the one I had, which is why I'm calling it KopyKat.
******************************************
Materials: I used Bernat Softee Baby and size 10½ straight needles

Note: If you make an afghan using this pattern then use a circular needle.
Note: Slip the first st of each row for a nicer edge.

Cast on a multiple of 18 sts + 6 more-I cast on 78 and am making a wrap.

K 6 rows for garter st border.

Now do pattern as follows:

Row 1: K
Row 2: K 3, P to last 3, K 3
Row 3: K3, (K2tog) 3 times, *(YO, K1) 6 times, (K2tog) 6 times, rep from * to last 9 sts, K(2tog) 3 times, K 2
Rows 4-6: K

Repeat these 6 rows for pattern until your project is desired size, end by working Row 3.
K 6 rows for garter st border and BO in K.

Work in any loose ends.

Abbreviations used:

CO: Cast On
BO: Bind Off
K: Knit
P: Purl
YO: Yarn Over
K2tog: Knit 2 together
st: Stitch
*****************************************
This pattern has not been tested with anyone other than myself so if you try it and find a problem, please let me know.

Shell of a Pattern

Appropriate yarn and hook for your project

This pattern can be used for anything from a scarf-baby afghan-full size afghan. It's only limited by your own imagination.

Sts used in pattern:

half shell-ch 4, dc in first st of row.
shell-(Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in same st

Foundation ch-Multiple of 3 + 4. For illustration purposes let's say 22, this would make a nice scarf.

Dc in 4th ch from hook, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, *sk 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk 2 ch sc in next ch. Repeat from * across. Turn.

Next row-Half shell in first sc, sc in 2nd dc of next shell, *shell in next sc, sc in 2nd dc of next shell. Repeat from * across, end sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4

Repeat this row for the length of your project. Change colors in last half of last sc of row if using multiple colors.


© Julie Hicks January 21, 2006

MTF Booties/Slippers

These are Make-to-Fit slippers that will work for anything from a baby bootie to an adult slipper. All you need is yarn, hook and three measurements.

Recommendations:

Baby booties: Baby yarn (the softer the better) and a smaller crochet hook (E, F or G)

Children: Anything from Baby yarn to WW and crochet hook from G-I

Adult: Anything from Baby Yarn to WW and crochet hook from I-K

I would be careful using wool, unless it's superwash wool.

If you'd like to try this with thread and a steel hook, let me know how it turns out.
***************************************************************
Firstly, if the foot the bootie/slipper is intended for is not around to try on the slipper as you go (or it's a surprise) then you need three measurements:

Length (toe-heel)
Instep (toe-ankle)
Circumference (around widest part of foot)
***************************************************************
Note: Keep records as you go so it's easier to make the second slipper.

Note: Any stitch from sc-dc can be used for the body of the slipper, I'm using hdc for illustration purposes. The cuff will be done in FPDC/BPDC

Note: If you use sc, work in a spiral instead of ending each rnd. Use a stitch marker/safety pin to mark first st of each rnd until you get to instep.

With desired hook and yarn ch 2, 6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to beg hdc. 6 hdc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each hdc around, join with sl st to beg hdc. 12 hdc.

Continue increasing 6 hdc evenly spaced until circumference of circle is app that of foot. Since the slipper will probably be stretchy, depending on yarn, it would be best to make it a bit smaller.

Work even until slipper is the length of instep. You will now be working in rows. Remove stitch marker at this time if using sc.

Ch 1, hdc in same sp and around, leaving from 2-4 hdc free at end for instep-depending on width of foot.

Next row: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc. Continue in this manner until length of slipper is length of foot, ending with right side row.

Turn slipper inside out and sl st heel opening closed. Break off and fasten. Turn slipper right side out.

Edit (10/29/08): I really should have thought of this before. Get creative with this pattern and try some of the novelty yarns-bouclé, fuzzy, furry, whatever. Try holding a strand of yarn with a strand of fuzzy or furry for some thick, warm fuzzy slippers-I've even found the fuzzy and furry yarn on special at some stores for as little as $1 a ball, so it doesn't have to be expensive at all.

Hat pattern can be found here.

This pattern © Julie Hicks, January 16, 2005.

Ribbed Baby Hat

Materials:

Bernat Softee Baby yarn

Aluminum crochet hook size I
**********************************

Ch 4, join to form a ring.

Ch 2, 11 hdc in ring-12 hdc, inc beg ch-2-join to top of beg ch-2.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same sp, 2 hdc in each hdc around-24 hdc-join to top of beg ch-2.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc) around. Join to top of beg ch-2. 32 hdc.

Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc) around. Join to top of beg ch-2. 40 hdc.

Rnds 5-15: Ch 2, FPDC in next hdc, (BPDC in next hdc, FPDC in next hdc) around, join to top of beg ch-2.

End off after last rnd and hide loose ends.

This hat is easy to tailor larger, just continue to inc 8 sts evenly spaced before beginning the ribbing. If it's needed you can also add more rnds of ribbing.

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

Ch- Chain
hdc- half-double crochet
FPDC- front post double crochet
BPDC- back post double crochet
Rnd(s)-round(s)

Instructions for FPDC/BPDC can be found here. Scroll down to the last two illustrations.

This pattern © Julie Hicks, January 15, 2006.

Bootie pattern can be found here.