Ribbed Fingerless Mitts

I found this pattern on the net quite a few years ago, but it looks like it isn't there anymore and I can't remember who wrote it, but it's such a simple pattern that I'm going to put it here. The OP used sock weight yarn and a size G or H hook, but I like thicker ones, so I'm writing it for WW yarn. She also stitched them together with a yarn needle and I prefer to crochet them together.

This pattern is OSFM and gauge is unimportant. It can be easily adjusted larger or smaller depending on the size of the hand and how far up the arm you want the mitt to go. I have a fairly large hand so adjust as you like. They're ambidextrous-you can wear them on either hand.

As you can see from the photo, they're easily sized for adults or children. I made both mitts with the same weight of yarn and the same hook just to show you. Also, my granddaughter and grandson want a pair so she'll get the peach pair and I'll do him some in another color ;)


Materials:

WW yarn such as RHSS-about three ounces should be sufficient for mitts as written.
Crochet hook size J
For slim hands use a size I hook and follow pattern
For very wide hands use a size K hook and follow pattern
For children you can use sportweight yarn and a size H hook

With a size I hook and a starting ch of 26 I got two pairs of mitts out of one 5 oz skein of varigated RHSS and only had a little bit left over. I believe you could do the same with the J or K hooks

Note. This mitt is easily adjustable since it is sl st together when finished. If you need it longer, just add more sts to thumb gusset. If you want it to cover more of your fingers just add more sts at the end of Row 6 (or 8). If you need the thumb gusset larger, add two more rows (making it 8 rows) before ch for the hand. If you want to cover more of your thumb, attach yarn to thumb gusset after joining mitt and work 3 or 4 rnds of sc around the opening.

Note, when adjusting for size, always keep your row count even instead of odd, this makes the joining less-visible.

Note: For a slightly longer mitt (about halfway between wrist/elbow), ch 26 for a starting ch (you will have 25 sts in your thumb gusset) and follow other directions as written.

Skill level: Advanced beginner/intermediate

Mitts: Make 2.

Thumb gusset:

Ch 21. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. 20 sc.

You will now be working in the BLO throughout unless otherwise specified.

Rows 2-6: Ch 1, turn. Working in the BLO, sc across. At the end of Row 6, ch 13 for hand.

Row 7: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, sc in BLO of next 20 sc. 32 sc.

Rows 8-24: Rep Row 2. Do not fasten off.

Joining (Note: Keep your tension a bit loose for this): Turn work. You will now join piece together using sl st. Insert hook under both lps of first sc and in the first free lp of ch-12 opposite, YO and complete sl st. Continue this way for the next 11 sts. Next continue on down the side of the mitt using the free lps of beg ch-20 (This will leave an opening for your thumb). Continue in sl st until you reach the wrist, then end off and hide the two loose ends to the inside of mitt.

Note: You will be joining mitt on the right side, so do not turn mitt inside-out when done. The joining is harder to see this way (It resembles the ribbing).

Note: Before cutting yarn after joining, try the mitt on. If it's too tight, rip back and add a couple more rows (1 rib). Continue doing this until the mitt fits hand comfortably. While you do want some stretch, you don't want so much that it's too tight. It may look small when you first put it together according to the above instructions, but it will stretch, which is why I recommend trying it on before cutting yarn.

Abbreviations used:

Ch: Chain
Sl st: Slip stitch
Beg: Beginning
Sc: Single crochet
BLO: Back Loop Only
St(s): Stitch(es)
Rnd(s): Round(s)

Fingerless Mitts

I'm editing this to something that might be a bit more understandable-I hope.

Cushy Soft Fingerless Mitts

Knit flat on a circular needle, then sewn up the side and the thumb worked in Magic loop-Bernat Soft Baby yarn never felt so good on the hands.

Materials:

Bernat Soft Baby yarn in white, or your choice of color-one skein will make several pairs. Or use a soft yarn which will give you the ribbing gauge below.

29" US#5 circular needle, 29" is the minimum length to use, longer ones may also be used. If you make them one at a time, a 16" circular can be used, but it is too short to make a pair at the same time.

4 stitch markers

2 small stitch holders

Yarn needle.

Note: You only need about a tennis ball size ball of yarn for each mitt. Knit both at the same time by winding a ball of yarn for each mitt off the skein.

Gauge: Ribbing-unstretched=4¼"LX1¾"W-L is measured across the bottom while piece is on the needle cable. If your gauge is close to this, you should be all right-mitt will fit most hands as they are quite stretchy.

If you need to make mitts smaller or larger for whatever reason, just make sure to CO an even number of sts and remember the thumb gusset is worked on the middle two sts. Also adjust your gusset size accordingly-less if they're for really small hands or more if the hands are larger than normal-wouldn't want to cut the circulation from the thumb-or make it too floppy-just use your best judgement.
*******************************************************************

Abbreviations used: K: Knit, P: Purl, CO: Cast On, sl: slip, st(s): stitch(es), st st: stockinette stitch, PM: Place Marker, KF&B: Knit in the Front and then in the Back of indicated st for an increase, beg: begin(ning)

If you want to work both mitts at the same time, wind about a tennis ball size ball of yarn from the skein for each mitt.

So, how does one knit a pair (or more) of mitts at the same time on the same needles? You use one ball of yarn for each mitt and cast each mitt onto the needle using its ball. You then work one row from the first mitt using that yarn, push it down onto the cable, pull up the other mitt and work that row with its yarn, turn, repeat until mitts are done. With a long enough circular needle, and enough balls of yarn, you could conceivably knit two pairs of mitts-but I would be careful not to tangle your yarn too much-or do this-unless you absolutely had to have two pairs of mitts done in the shortest amount of time possible.

Using the long tail cast-on, CO 40 sts from one ball onto the circular needle, push these sts down to the cable, then CO 40 sts from the other ball onto the same end of the needle, turn and start working mitts. Make both mitts exactly the same-I will be giving instructions for only one mitt, as they are ambidextrous and can be worn on either hand.

Note: Always sl the first st of each row-for K st, sl as if to K, for P st, sl as if to P.

Work 12 rows K1, P1 ribbing-This is what is measured for gauge

Work 8 rows st st

Thumb gusset:

Next row: K19, PM, KF&B of next 2 sts, PM, K19-42 sts

Next row: P across, sl markers when you reach them and cont to sl them.

Next row: K to marker, KF&B of next st, K to st before marker, KF&B of next st, K19-44 sts

Next row: P across

Rep prev 2 rows two times more-48 sts

Next row: K to marker, remove marker, K1, sl next 8 sts onto right needle WITHOUT working them, then sl them onto a stitch holder to be worked later, K1, Remove next marker, K to end-40 sts

Beg with P row, work about an inch and a half of st st, or until total length of mitt is about 6"-end by working a P row.

Next 4 rows: Work K1, P1 ribbing, BO in ribbing, cut yarn-leaving a long length for sewing and pull the end through the last st to secure it.

Thumb: Attach yarn and K the 8 sts from the holder, then slide these sts onto the cable, Pick up and K 8 more sts evenly around the thumb opening, then join and work 4 rnds of K1, P1 ribbing using the Magic Loop method. BO in ribbing, cut yarn, secure, then hide all yarn ends, except the long one at the top-thread this end into a yarn needle and sew the side seam of the mitt together using your preferred method of sewing a seam-making sure to fold the mitt with WS facing out. Hide yarn end when finished and turn mitt inside out.

Note: If you have trouble with Magic Loop, you can use a set of #5 DPNs-Divide the 16 thumb sts evenly onto the needles and work 4 rnds of K1, P1 ribbing. For a set of 5 needles, divide the sts evenly onto 4 of them-4 sts to each needle, for a set of 4 needles, have 5 sts to your first two needles and 6 sts on your third needle.

********************************************************************

This pattern is perfectly adaptable to working in the round as well. If you don't want to sew a seam, simply grab your #5 knitting in the round needles of choice, divide your stitches and start working. You may have to recalculate gauge a bit, since stockinette in the round has a slightly different gauge to stockinette worked flat. But as stretchy as the mitts are, I doubt there will be much recalculating.

If you do this using Magic Loop or two circs, change where you put your thumb gusset to as close as the middle two stitches on either side as you can get-it really won't matter-they'll still look and fit the same.

Just calculate about 1¾" to 2" of ribbing at the wrist, about an inch of stockinette before shaping thumb gusset then calculate what you would need for a comfortable thumb opening, then just add the two end stitches back and put the rest on a stitch holder, then work until mitt is between 5½" to 6" long, then work top ribbing.

Oh, and you'll do your gusset increases on every other round after you start them and work one more round even after finishing them before putting the stitches off on the holder.

For thumb opening, you want to pick up and knit the same number of stitches around the opening as you have on the holder and work your ribbing like the flat mitt.

Simple, huh?