Doubleknit potholder

This is a great way to practice doubleknitting. Doubleknitting has been around at least since Hoover's time- see Hoover blanket-but I would practice with a potholder first. You really don't need to make a wide border for potholders but can make the whole thing in doubleknit and it will make a nice thick potholder.

Materials: WW yarn in two different colors, straight knitting needls size 6-I'm using RHSS but you can also use S&C cotton and also get a nice thick dishcloth.

Crochet hook if you want to make a loop in corner.

Gauge is unimportant.

Note, try not to twist your yarns together while knitting except at the beg of rows (where you'll twist them tog once to keep edges together), with practice you can do this quite easily.
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There are several ways to cast on for this, I like two ways: With the darker color, CO double the number of sts you'll need for your project (30 would be a good size so CO 60)

Alternate method: Holding both colors together CO 30 sts-making sure your colors always fall the same way-dark/light or light/dark

Start your doubleknitting-holding both yarns tog, K the first st with your first color, bring both yarns to the front and P the next st with your CC, bring both yarns to the back, K the next st-always alternating colors. Continue in this manner to the end of row.

Next row, you will be K the sts you P in the prev row and P the K sts. Twist your yarns tog once before starting.

Continue in this manner until potholder/dishcloth is the size you want. BO by K2tog across-still using both yarns. At the end of the BO insert crochet hook in the st left and ch 1, sc evenly around potholder. When you reach the beg of your border ch 10 and ss in first sc. End off and tuck in all loose ends.

If you've done this correctly you will have a potholder/dishcloth that is one color on one side and another color on the other. When you get accustomed to this method you can start working patterns into your project which, when finished, will be opposite images of each other on each side. To work stripes you would alternate your colors every few rows.

I will have a picture up as soon as I finish the potholder I'm working on.

Meanwhile, check out this free pattern from KnittingHelp Hot Pad

It shows what each side will look like when it's finished.

Peace, Be Still Shawl

Materials:
Joann Sensations Rainbow Boucle-1 skein Dark Blue
Knitting needles size 10½, 29" length
Yarn needle for weaving in loose ends

Gauge:Unimportant

Note: Slip the first stitch of each row as if to K for a smoother edge.
Note: Row 1 of Pattern Rows is RS

Pattern Rows:
1: K
2: K 3, P to last 3, K 3
3: K 3, (KFB of next st) 3 times, *(K2TOG) 6 times, (KFB of next st) 6 times, rep from * across to last 9 sts, (KFB of next st) 3 times, K 3.
4: Rep row 2.

Directions:

CO 114 sts and K 6 rows for gart st border.

Work Pattern Rows until shawl is the length desired, K 6 rows for gart st border and BO in K.

Using yarn needle, work loose ends in on WS of shawl.

Abbreviations:
CO..........Cast On
BO..........Bind Off
gart st....garter stitch
K.............Knit
P.............Purl
KFB........Knit (in) Front (and) Back
K2TOG..Knit 2 Together
St(s).......Stitch(es)
WS..........Wrong Side
RS...........Right Side

KopyKat Sea of Tranquility

Since none of the feather and fan patterns I ran across online were written right I decided to sit down with some yarn and needles and come up with my own. It's very similar to the Feather and Fan Dishcloth. The only differences are I fixed Row 6 of the pattern and added a couple of more knit rows after that because that's the way I remember the one I had. I know it's not an exact copy of the one I had, which is why I'm calling it KopyKat.
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Materials: I used Bernat Softee Baby and size 10½ straight needles

Note: If you make an afghan using this pattern then use a circular needle.
Note: Slip the first st of each row for a nicer edge.

Cast on a multiple of 18 sts + 6 more-I cast on 78 and am making a wrap.

K 6 rows for garter st border.

Now do pattern as follows:

Row 1: K
Row 2: K 3, P to last 3, K 3
Row 3: K3, (K2tog) 3 times, *(YO, K1) 6 times, (K2tog) 6 times, rep from * to last 9 sts, K(2tog) 3 times, K 2
Rows 4-6: K

Repeat these 6 rows for pattern until your project is desired size, end by working Row 3.
K 6 rows for garter st border and BO in K.

Work in any loose ends.

Abbreviations used:

CO: Cast On
BO: Bind Off
K: Knit
P: Purl
YO: Yarn Over
K2tog: Knit 2 together
st: Stitch
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This pattern has not been tested with anyone other than myself so if you try it and find a problem, please let me know.

Shell of a Pattern

Appropriate yarn and hook for your project

This pattern can be used for anything from a scarf-baby afghan-full size afghan. It's only limited by your own imagination.

Sts used in pattern:

half shell-ch 4, dc in first st of row.
shell-(Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in same st

Foundation ch-Multiple of 3 + 4. For illustration purposes let's say 22, this would make a nice scarf.

Dc in 4th ch from hook, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, *sk 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk 2 ch sc in next ch. Repeat from * across. Turn.

Next row-Half shell in first sc, sc in 2nd dc of next shell, *shell in next sc, sc in 2nd dc of next shell. Repeat from * across, end sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4

Repeat this row for the length of your project. Change colors in last half of last sc of row if using multiple colors.


© Julie Hicks January 21, 2006

MTF Booties/Slippers

These are Make-to-Fit slippers that will work for anything from a baby bootie to an adult slipper. All you need is yarn, hook and three measurements.

Recommendations:

Baby booties: Baby yarn (the softer the better) and a smaller crochet hook (E, F or G)

Children: Anything from Baby yarn to WW and crochet hook from G-I

Adult: Anything from Baby Yarn to WW and crochet hook from I-K

I would be careful using wool, unless it's superwash wool.

If you'd like to try this with thread and a steel hook, let me know how it turns out.
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Firstly, if the foot the bootie/slipper is intended for is not around to try on the slipper as you go (or it's a surprise) then you need three measurements:

Length (toe-heel)
Instep (toe-ankle)
Circumference (around widest part of foot)
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Note: Keep records as you go so it's easier to make the second slipper.

Note: Any stitch from sc-dc can be used for the body of the slipper, I'm using hdc for illustration purposes. The cuff will be done in FPDC/BPDC

Note: If you use sc, work in a spiral instead of ending each rnd. Use a stitch marker/safety pin to mark first st of each rnd until you get to instep.

With desired hook and yarn ch 2, 6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to beg hdc. 6 hdc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each hdc around, join with sl st to beg hdc. 12 hdc.

Continue increasing 6 hdc evenly spaced until circumference of circle is app that of foot. Since the slipper will probably be stretchy, depending on yarn, it would be best to make it a bit smaller.

Work even until slipper is the length of instep. You will now be working in rows. Remove stitch marker at this time if using sc.

Ch 1, hdc in same sp and around, leaving from 2-4 hdc free at end for instep-depending on width of foot.

Next row: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc. Continue in this manner until length of slipper is length of foot, ending with right side row.

Turn slipper inside out and sl st heel opening closed. Break off and fasten. Turn slipper right side out.

Edit (10/29/08): I really should have thought of this before. Get creative with this pattern and try some of the novelty yarns-bouclé, fuzzy, furry, whatever. Try holding a strand of yarn with a strand of fuzzy or furry for some thick, warm fuzzy slippers-I've even found the fuzzy and furry yarn on special at some stores for as little as $1 a ball, so it doesn't have to be expensive at all.

Hat pattern can be found here.

This pattern © Julie Hicks, January 16, 2005.

Ribbed Baby Hat

Materials:

Bernat Softee Baby yarn

Aluminum crochet hook size I
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Ch 4, join to form a ring.

Ch 2, 11 hdc in ring-12 hdc, inc beg ch-2-join to top of beg ch-2.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same sp, 2 hdc in each hdc around-24 hdc-join to top of beg ch-2.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc) around. Join to top of beg ch-2. 32 hdc.

Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc) around. Join to top of beg ch-2. 40 hdc.

Rnds 5-15: Ch 2, FPDC in next hdc, (BPDC in next hdc, FPDC in next hdc) around, join to top of beg ch-2.

End off after last rnd and hide loose ends.

This hat is easy to tailor larger, just continue to inc 8 sts evenly spaced before beginning the ribbing. If it's needed you can also add more rnds of ribbing.

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

Ch- Chain
hdc- half-double crochet
FPDC- front post double crochet
BPDC- back post double crochet
Rnd(s)-round(s)

Instructions for FPDC/BPDC can be found here. Scroll down to the last two illustrations.

This pattern © Julie Hicks, January 15, 2006.

Bootie pattern can be found here.

Just to let people know

I've turned on the word verification in my comments. What this means is that anyone leaving a comment has to pass the word verification before their comment will be posted-it's similar to the word verification you do when you create a blog. This cuts out on automatic comment spam.

I didn't know this existed until I posted at Crochetville about getting 3 spam comments in one of my blog entries.

To enable this, go to your Dashboard>Settings>Comments then click yes for word verification.

I would rather go this extra step in comments on anyone's blog than have them get spam.

Crocheted Fish Motif

This thread at Crochetville got me to thinking and I came up with a crocheted fish motif.

This pattern is untested, I've only made one and wrote the pattern as I went so if anyone makes this and finds an error please let me know.



Pattern © 5/30/2005 Julie Hicks

Crocheted Fish Motif

Materials:

Small amounts of worsted weight yarn-app 1 oz for each

fish, maybe less.

Crochet hook size H

Gauge: Fish measures 10½" from nose to tail
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Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across-6 sc, ch 1,

turn

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: Inc in first and last sc, ch

1, turn

Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15: Sc in each sc across, ch 1,

turn. At the end of row 15 you should have 20 sc.

Rows 16, 17: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 18, 20, 22, 24: Dec over the first 2 and last 2 sc

across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 19, 21, 23, 25: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn. At

the end of Row 25 you should have 12 sc.

Row 26: Sc in first 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 5

sc, ch 1, turn-11 sc

Rows 27, 29, 31: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 28: Sc in first 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 5

sc, ch 1, turn-10 sc

Row 30: Sc in first 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 4

sc, ch 1, turn-9 sc.

Rows 31, 32, 33: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Rows 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46: Inc in first and last sc,

ch 1, turn.

Rows 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47: Sc in each sc across, at

the end of Row 47, finish off.

Happy crocheting.

Edit: They don't quite tesselate right so a friend made some improvements, I'll get them up as soon as possible. Thank you, Kahud

Shortie Sleeper

Note: I've had questions about the hat and booties-did I have the patterns for them? The patterns for those I found at Crochet Pattern Central

The bootie pattern seems to have been moved or removed so I don't know where that is anymore. Crochet Pattern Central does have tons more bootie and hat links so you can pick ones you like. The hat pattern is here if you want to do it and it is super-easy. (edited April 1, 2007)

Pattern © 4/22/2005 Julie Hicks

Baby Sport Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart)-between 3-4 ozs

Crochet hook sizes H & K (I used Boye aluminum)

4 small buttons

Gauge: Size K hook-5 sc & 7 rows = 1-1/2"

Size: Newborn-3 months

Note: Try not to hold your tension too tightly.

Note: Even rows are the right side.
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Begin at Yoke:

ch 45 with larger size hook

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 6 ch. 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 8
ch, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 10 ch, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 8 ch, 3 sc in next ch, sc in last 7 ch

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 8 sc

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 9 sc

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 10 sc

Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in
next sc, sc in last 11 sc

Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc in next 13 sc, skip next 18 sc, sc in next 22 sc,
skip next 18 sc, sc in last 13 sc-48 sc

Rows 12-30: sc in each sc. At the end of Row 30 join with a sl st to first
st of the row to close the garment. You will now be working in rounds. 48 sc

Next 4 Rnds: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc around, join with sl st to beg sc.

Note: It's easy to miscount working these 4 rnds, make sure you count your
sts and that you still have 48 at the end.

Crotch and left leg: Right side facing, ch 8, skip 23 sc, sl st in next sc,
ch 1, sc in same sp, sc across ch-8 and back around left leg to beg sc. Do not join,
mark beg of rnd with st marker-you should have 32 sc.

Next rnd: *sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, rep from * around-28 sc

Next rnd: work even.

Next rnd: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, rep from * around-24 sc

Next 6 rnds: work even in the round, do not join rounds. Sl st in next st, end off.

Right leg: With back of sleeper facing, attach yarn with a sl st in same sc
as crotch, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc around to front, sc in free lps
of crotch. You should have 32 sc.

Finish leg in same manner as left leg.

Front trim: Using smaller hook, attach yarn with a sl st in bottom of left
front 1 row up, ch 1, sc in ends of rows all the way to neckline, 3 sc in
corner, sc around neckline, 3 sc in corner, sc in end of each row to 1 row
before bottom. Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc around, 3 sc in corners. When going
down left front, after the corner, sc in next sc, ch 4 for button loop, *sc
in next 8 sc, ch 4, rep from * twice more, sc in each sc to end, end off.

Sew buttons opposite buttonholes

Hide all loose ends.

If you want to make this a long-legged sleeper, simply continue sc evenly
around until leg is long enough then sew or crochet bottom seam together.

Same for sleeves, if you want long sleeves, attach yarn at underarm and sc
evenly around until sleeve is long enough.

Abbreviations:

ch----chain
st----stitch
sl st-slip stitch
sc----single crochet
rnd---round
beg---begin(ning)
rep---repeat

Hello

I made this blog to post original patterns on. Sometimes I get an idea in my head about something and pick up a hook and start crocheting and I thought I might want to share some of my patterns with others.

All patterns in this blog are © to me, Julie Hicks. You're free to use them for your own use as gifts, donations, etc but please do not add them to any website. Link to this blog if you like.

Thank you very much.

Jules