Shell-easy legwarmers

This is based on my Shell-easy mitts and are easy to make. They have an added ribbing on the top and bottom so that they'll stay on your leg.

I'm giving the directions for one that fits my leg, obviously if you have larger or smaller legs you will have to adjust your starting chain up or down 6 chains for it to fit your leg.

Note: This pattern is easily adjustable for any weight of yarn with appropriate hook. RHSS will make a fairly heavy legging. If you want a lighter legging then use sport weight or lighter yarn with appropriate sized hook. For the ribbing you will want a hook at least one size smaller than the one you use for the legging, I recommend one two sizes smaller where possible so that the ribbing will be snug.

Note: Your starting chain should fit around the largest part of your lower leg at the calf. Do not stretch it too much, it will be better if it's a bit loose. The shell-easy pattern has some give in it.

Materials:

RHSS, Amethyst. I'm using a partial skein of 14 ozs, I recommend two  regular skeins to be sure, or one 14 oz skein. Or any WW yarn.
Crochet hooks sizes H and J
Yarn needle to weave in ends

Gauge: Not important.

Shell: 5 dc in specified st.

Shell-easy pattern (over a multiple of 6 sts around):

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same place as joining, sk 2 sc, shell in next sc, sk 2 sc, *sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, shell in next sc, sk 2 sc. Rep from * around, join with sl st to first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), shell in 3rd dc of next shell, *dc in sc bet shells, shell in 3rd dc of next shell. Rep from * around, join with sl st to 3rd dc of starting ch-3

Rnds 3 and following: Ch 3, shell in 3rd dc of next shell, *dc in dc bet shells, shell in 3rd dc of next shell. Rep from * around, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-3

Using larger hook:

Ch 42 (or a multiple of six), join to form a ring, being careful not to twist sts. Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with sl st to first sc. 42 sc.

Work shell-easy pattern above until you have 14 shell rnds.

Next rnd: Ch 1, sc in same place as joining and in each dc around, join with a sl st in 1st sc. 42 sc. Do not end off.

Note: Count your ribbing sts carefully every now and then, it's very easy to miss the sc right next to the legwarmer and you'll lose a stitch and have to frog back.

Top ribbing. Switch to smaller hook:

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sl st in same st as joining on legging and in next sc of legging. Turn. 10 sc.

Row 2: Sk the 2 sl sts and sc in BLO of next 10 sc. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in BLO of each sc across, sl st in next 2 sc of legging. Turn

Rep Rows 2 and 3 alternately all the way around, ending by working Row 2 (do not ch 1 at end of this row, just turn). Turn and sl st the last row worked to the free lps of beg ch, working through both lps of last row. End off, leaving end long enough to weave in.

Bottom ribbing: Still using smaller hook. (This pulls the bottom in to fit the ankle better)

Attach yarn with a sl st to any free lp of beg ch. Ch 1 and sc in same st as joining and in each free lp of beg ch. Join with sl st to first sc. Make sure you have 42 sc (I somehow ended up with 43, but it was no biggie to fix)(Or however many chs you had in your starting ch)

Now work ribbing same as the top ribbing, except ch 9 instead of 11.

Finishing: Weave in loose ends.

Basic Glove

 

Yes, I know the thumb and wrist ribbing are a different color. That was because I ran out of the lighter yarn as I was working. This glove is simply a demonstration so that I have a picture. But if you like it, feel free to copy it, or even do each finger in a different color. Just be sure to use the glove color to bring palm of glove up to base of fingers before switching colors. This will leave more ends to work in, but just leave them long enough to thread through a yarn needle.

Materials:

WW yarn, app 4 ozs should be sufficient
Crochet hooks sizes G and I
Yarn needle to weave in ends
small safety pins for markers (at least 2)
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Gauge: Not terribly important

Difficulty: I wouldn't recommend this for a beginner, intermediate at the very least.

Right, I'm just going to write how I did this in basic language. Start out using the larger hook, the smaller one will come in later when you add your ribbing.

What I did was to chain a chain that fit around my hand without stretching. You do want an even number for the ribbing added later to come out right. I believe mine came out to 30 sts.

Being careful not to twist sts, join this chain to form a circle.

Ch 1, sc in each ch st around Place a marker (such as a small safety pin) in the first st to mark beg of rnds as you will not be joining rnds, but working in a spiral.

Sc in each sc around, moving marker up as you go, for about an inch. (Took me about 10 rnds)

Shaping Thumb Gusset:

Sc in 1st sc, inc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, inc in next sc, sc in next sc and mark this sc. (It will be removed later, after you finish shaping gusset). Sc in rem sc of rnd

Sc in each sc around, moving both markers up.

Sc in 1st sc, inc in next sc, sc to within 1 st of second marker, inc in st just before marker, sc in rem sc around, moving both markers up.

Sc in each sc around, moving both markers up.

Rep the incs as before, moving both markers up.

Sc in each sc around, moving both markers up.

Sc in first sc, ch 5, remove second marker and sc in that sc and each sc around. You no longer need the second marker, but continue to move the first marker up.

This is where you'll need to try the glove on frequently. You will need to work even for about an inch, or until you reach the bottom of your pinky.

Put the glove on and mark the two sc that are app between the pinky and ring finger. Move the one you've been using to mark the beg of rnds as you will now be working each finger individually and that doesn't matter anymore.

Sc around to the first marker (back of glove) and move it up, then sc around to the other marker (palm) and remove it, making a sc in the marked sc. Ch enough chs so that you will have 10 sts from the marked st, then turn glove and sc in marked sc on back of glove. Set this marker aside, and sc around to ch sts between fingers, mark the sc before the ch as the beg of rnd.

Sc in the ch sts between fingers, and in each sc, then continue to work evenly, trying on the glove, until the finger is just above tip of the pinky. End off, leaving at least 4 inches. Thread end of yarn into a yarn needle and weave it through the tops of the sts in the last rnd and pull tight. Turn finger inside-out and secure yarn to inside, then weave end through sts on wrong side, then turn finger back right side out.

You see where I'm going with this? Trying on the glove as you go insures that the fingers are right, and you can frog back to add more chs if it's too tight.

Now, try the glove on and mark the scs between the ring finger and middle finger. Attach yarn to the sc on the palm of glove where the pinky is attached, then sc around, moving markers up and sc in free loops of ch between pinky and ring finger. This should bring palm of glove up to the base of the ring finger. Now, with marked sc  on palm of glove as your beg of rnd, crochet the ring finger, having at least 11-12 sts, however many you need to fit around ring finger comfortably. Complete finger as you did the pinky, trying glove on to get length right, and then continue on with the other two fingers as established, working another rnd around to bring palm of glove up to the base of middle finger before starting to crochet the finger. 11-12 sts should be sufficient for remaining fingers as well. For the index finger, work sts into side of first rnd of middle finger if you need to, to get sufficient sts for index finger to fit comfortably.

Once you're finished with the fingers, it's time to do the thumb, and this one will have to be done a little differently. Attach yarn to one side of gusset and sc all the way around, marking firs st of rnd as before.

Sc around, dec one st on each side of thumb gusset.

Sc around.

Do prev 2 rows alternately one or two more times, or until you have 11-12 sc, then work evenly until thumb is long enough and finish off as with the fingers.

Wrist ribbing:

Using smaller hook, attach yarn to any free lp at lower end of glove. Ch 13, or however many you like, to get length you want, plus one to turn.

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Sl st into same st you attached yarn in, and in next free lp and turn.

Skip the 2 sl sts and sc in BLO of each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Sc in BLO of each sc across, sl st into next 2 free lps on glove, turn

You see the pattern now? Sc in BLO throughout and work ribbing all the way around glove. When you've reach the last two free lps, do not ch 1 and turn at the end of row, but sl st the last row you just made to the first row all the way down, cut  yarn leaving at least 4 inches long, thread end through a yarn needle and secure on the wrong side of ribbing, hiding the end. Your glove is now finished, make another one for your other hand, if you managed to understand these instructions.

Shell-easy mitts

These mitts are made in one piece and seamless so there's no sewing after. They're lacy, yet warm and will allow you to type if you get cold hands in winter. Or you can wear them over a plain pair of gloves to dress them up and add extra warmth. They're ambidextrous-you can wear them on either hand.

Materials:
Red Heart Shimmer, 1 skein will make at least two pairs, if not three
Crochet hook size H
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Other yarns you can use:
Caron Simply Soft
Red Heart Super Saver
Really, just about any yarn can be used, with appropriately-sized hook, you'll just need to adjust the pattern up or down to compensate. Also be aware that different weights of yarn will make the mitt look different from that pictured. Lightweight yarn will look delicate, while WW yarn will look sturdier. If you use a lightweight yarn, you may want to ch 2 for the thumbhole, and then do a dc dec in the two chs on your next rnd to bring it back to one dc.
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Make 2

Loosely ch a multiple of 6 so that it fits around your hand without stretching and join to form a ring, being careful not to twist sts. Alternatively, use a size I crochet hook to make starting ch, then switch to the size H hook for the remainder. This will make the starting ch a bit more flexible since there is no ribbing.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sk 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch (shell), *sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk 2 ch, shell in next ch. Rep from * around, join with sl st to beg sc. 5 shells on a ch of 30. your shell count will vary if your chain is larger or smaller.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, shell in 3rd dc of next shell (shell on shell), *Dc in next sc, shell on next shell. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3


Rnds 3-7: Ch 3, shell on next shell, *dc in dc bet shells, shell on next shell. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

Rnd 8: Rep prev rnd, except when you reach last dc bet shells, ch 1, sk the dc bet shells and make a shell on the last shell. Join with a sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-3. This space will be the thumb hole.

Last 4 rnds (Hand). Continue in pat as established, making a dc in the ch-1 sp of the thumb hole bet shells on rnd 9. End off after rnd 11. Weave in loose ends.

Alternative construction:

If you're a beginner and have trouble making the shell pattern in the foundation ch, or you want a sturdier foundation to work on, once you get your foundation ch joined, ch 1 and sc in each ch around. Join with a sl st in the first sc and then continue on with pattern as written.

Long mitts:

If you want elbow-length mitts, start with a size J hook and do about three rnds of shells, switch to a size I hook and do three more, then switch to a size H hook and finish mitt out. I also suggest that you start with a rnd of sc in your foundation ch before you start the shell pattern.

Ribbed Fingerless Mitts

I found this pattern on the net quite a few years ago, but it looks like it isn't there anymore and I can't remember who wrote it, but it's such a simple pattern that I'm going to put it here. The OP used sock weight yarn and a size G or H hook, but I like thicker ones, so I'm writing it for WW yarn. She also stitched them together with a yarn needle and I prefer to crochet them together.

This pattern is OSFM and gauge is unimportant. It can be easily adjusted larger or smaller depending on the size of the hand and how far up the arm you want the mitt to go. I have a fairly large hand so adjust as you like. They're ambidextrous-you can wear them on either hand.

As you can see from the photo, they're easily sized for adults or children. I made both mitts with the same weight of yarn and the same hook just to show you. Also, my granddaughter and grandson want a pair so she'll get the peach pair and I'll do him some in another color ;)


Materials:

WW yarn such as RHSS-about three ounces should be sufficient for mitts as written.
Crochet hook size J
For slim hands use a size I hook and follow pattern
For very wide hands use a size K hook and follow pattern
For children you can use sportweight yarn and a size H hook

With a size I hook and a starting ch of 26 I got two pairs of mitts out of one 5 oz skein of varigated RHSS and only had a little bit left over. I believe you could do the same with the J or K hooks

Note. This mitt is easily adjustable since it is sl st together when finished. If you need it longer, just add more sts to thumb gusset. If you want it to cover more of your fingers just add more sts at the end of Row 6 (or 8). If you need the thumb gusset larger, add two more rows (making it 8 rows) before ch for the hand. If you want to cover more of your thumb, attach yarn to thumb gusset after joining mitt and work 3 or 4 rnds of sc around the opening.

Note, when adjusting for size, always keep your row count even instead of odd, this makes the joining less-visible.

Note: For a slightly longer mitt (about halfway between wrist/elbow), ch 26 for a starting ch (you will have 25 sts in your thumb gusset) and follow other directions as written.

Skill level: Advanced beginner/intermediate

Mitts: Make 2.

Thumb gusset:

Ch 21. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. 20 sc.

You will now be working in the BLO throughout unless otherwise specified.

Rows 2-6: Ch 1, turn. Working in the BLO, sc across. At the end of Row 6, ch 13 for hand.

Row 7: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, sc in BLO of next 20 sc. 32 sc.

Rows 8-24: Rep Row 2. Do not fasten off.

Joining (Note: Keep your tension a bit loose for this): Turn work. You will now join piece together using sl st. Insert hook under both lps of first sc and in the first free lp of ch-12 opposite, YO and complete sl st. Continue this way for the next 11 sts. Next continue on down the side of the mitt using the free lps of beg ch-20 (This will leave an opening for your thumb). Continue in sl st until you reach the wrist, then end off and hide the two loose ends to the inside of mitt.

Note: You will be joining mitt on the right side, so do not turn mitt inside-out when done. The joining is harder to see this way (It resembles the ribbing).

Note: Before cutting yarn after joining, try the mitt on. If it's too tight, rip back and add a couple more rows (1 rib). Continue doing this until the mitt fits hand comfortably. While you do want some stretch, you don't want so much that it's too tight. It may look small when you first put it together according to the above instructions, but it will stretch, which is why I recommend trying it on before cutting yarn.

Abbreviations used:

Ch: Chain
Sl st: Slip stitch
Beg: Beginning
Sc: Single crochet
BLO: Back Loop Only
St(s): Stitch(es)
Rnd(s): Round(s)

Comfy Slipper Sock

Materials:

RHSS yarn in two different colors. The sample in the picture is bright yellow and sage green. I'd say a couple ounces each should be sufficient to make socks

Crochet hooks sizes K and J


Skill level: Advanced beginner/intermediate

Note: This will fit a fairly large foot. I wear a size 8-1/2w ladies shoe and it's a bit loose on me, so you could go down a hook size and still have a large sock, or for even smaller socks used lighter yarn and smaller hooks. Me, I don't like snug socks, so they suit me just as they are.

Note: You will be working in a spiral for the foot/instep, use a stitch marker to mark beg of rnd.

There is no gauge, it's easily adjustable as you crochet. Just inc more or less to fit your foot and work more or less rnds until it covers your instep. Since it's toe up you can try it on.

With CA and K hook, ch 2.

Rnd 1: Work 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join, place marker

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. 16 sc

Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc. Rep from * around. 24 sc

Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc. Rep from * around. 32 sc

Next 24 rnds: Work even. Change to CB in last sc of last rnd.

Next  row: Sc in next 28 sc. Now you will work in rows. Ch 1, turn.

Next 12 rows: Rep prev row. Now, break off leaving a long end and use yarn needle to sew back seam, or simply sl st back seam together before breaking off.

Next: Attach CB to top opening near back seam of sock. Ch 1 and work 32 sc evenly around (or however many sc were in rnd 4 of toe/foot if customizing). Join with a sl st to first sc.

Now you will work the ribbing as follows:

Ch 17. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sl st in next 2 sc of slipper opening, turn.

Next: Sk next 2 sl sts and sc in BLO of next 16 sc. Ch 1, turn

You will now work in BLO, sc in next 16 sc, sl st in next 2 sc of opening.

Continue as established until you have worked your way all the way around, then sl st ribbing together.

Note: As I said in the beginning, these slipper socks are easily adjustable. You can start out with 6 sc instead of 8. You can inc less/more, you can add/subtract rnds/rows to fit your particular foot, you can make the ribbing longer/shorter. You can also go down a hook size or two, or use even smaller hooks and sportweight yarn for small/kids feet. Feel free to experiment. Use only one color, stripe it, use self-striping, varigated yarn, the pattern is very flexible. To make the ribbing a bit more snug, go down two hook sizes when you make it.  Make it to suit you.

Enjoy.

Abbreviations:

Ch: Chain
Sc: Single crochet
Sl st: Slip stitch
BLO: Back Loop Only
Rep: Repeat
Prev: Previous
Rnd: Round

Corner-Corner Afghan

Materials:

Yarn and appropriately-sized circular knitting needle at least 29" long for baby blanket, longer for full-size afghans.

Note: Afghan is worked from one corner to the opposite corner, hence the name.

Note: You may also make this more cushy by working afghan completely in gart st (k each row), just inc in the first st of each row and then dec at the beg of each row.

Note: If you make afghan entirely in gart st, you do not need to use a marker.

Instructions:

CO one st.

Row 1: Inc 1 st by kfb

Row 2: Inc, k to end

Rep Row 2 until you have 7 sts on needle.

Next row: Inc, k 2, pm, k across.

Now work as follows:

Next Row (WS): Inc, k 2, p to marker, remove marker, k 4
Next Row (RS): Inc, k 3, pm, k across.

Continue in established pat until blanket is desired width. Then work as follows:

WS row: Dec (k2tog), k 3, p to marker, remove marker, k 4
RS row: Dec (k2tog), k 3, pm, k across.

Continue in this way until there are 8 sts remaining, then cont working in gart st, dec at the beg of each row, until you have 1 st remaining. Cut yarn and thread through last st and pull tight. Hide all yarn ends.

You can make this with all one color or change colors for diagonal striping pattern. Change colors at the beginning of RS only for a neat look. You may also work a design into the st st part as you go, or duplicate-stitch a pattern into it after knitting for even more variety. Any chart out there could be used, from simple to complex, as long as the stitch count matches the blanket.

Abbreviations:

CO: Cast On
k: Knit
p: Purl
kfb: Knit in front and back of indicated st
k2tog: Knit two together
RS: Right side
WS: Wrong side
inc: increase
dec: decrease
Rep: repeat
st st: stockinette st
gart st: garter st
st(s): stitch(es)
pm: place marker

Peaks and Valleys afghan

This is a typical crocheted sc ripple. A very good project to use up scrap yarn if you have enough to do two rows, or you can do it all one color or any combination of colors that you desire.

I call it peaks and valleys because it reminds me that the God of the mountain (peak) is the same God when you're in the valley. No picture yet, since it's a WIP and not very far along yet.

Note: To customize the size of the afghan, the starting ch is a multiple of 23+3. Chain a multiple of 23, then add 3 more to the end of it. Work until afghan is the length desired.

Materials:

WW yarn (I used RHSS) Sufficient to finish the afghan.

Crochet hook size 7.00 (Between a K and L, either will do)

Yarn needle to work in any loose ends.
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With your MC or starting color, ch 187.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk 1 ch, *sc in next 10 chs, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 10 chs, sk 2 chs, rep from * across to the last 2 chs, sk 1 ch, sc in last ch. 8 points.

Note: Work in the BLO from now on.

Row 2 and all other rows: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first sc, sk 1 sc, *sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in next sc (top of point), sc in next 10 sc, sk 2 sc, rep from * across to last 2 sc, sk 1 sc, sc in last sc.

Repeat Row 2 for pattern, changing colors as you like. Always change colors by finishing the last half of the last sc with the new color by drawing it through the last two sts. Cut old yarn, leaving a long end for sewing in.

I'm doing one using off-white as the MC and bits and pieces of other colors as CCs. 12 rows of MC, then 2 rows of CC, beg and end with MC.

Note: For a scrapghan you will want enough of each color to do at least two rows (1 rib), it looks better if you change colors at least every two rows. For wider stripes, keep your row count even (2, 4, 6, etc) so that color changes happen on the same side of the afghan and it looks more consistent.

Abbreviations:

BLO-back loop only
ch-chain
sc-single crochet
rep-repeat
sk-skip
MC-main color
CC-contrasting color
beg-begin

Single crochet ripple tutorial

It's really not all that hard to calculate and crochet your own sc ripple, whether you're making a scarf, a wrap/shawl or an afghan. The yarn you use doesn't matter, just use a hook recommended on the wrapper, or don't go much bigger or smaller. Gauge isn't important either. Here's how it's done:

Figure out how many stitches you want on each side of the peak, add one for the peak and two for the skipped chains at the bottom. This is your multiple. Then crochet this multiple until you have as many peaks as desired, then add three more. This formula will work for any size sc ripple, no matter how many sts you want in each peak.

Say you want 7 sc along each side. Okay, that's 14. Now you will add 3 more (one for your peak and the two you will skip at the bottom). So that's 14 + 3 = 17. 17 will be your multiple. Now say you want 10 peaks for a wrap. Your starting chain will be 17 x 10 = 170. Now you'll want to add 3 more, bringing your total to 173. So your pattern will read multiple of 17 + 3, meaning you will chain your multiple (17) ten times, then add three more chains at the end.

Note: The instructions in parentheses below are to be repeated according to the instructions, which is all the way across to the last 2 chs/sc.

Note: When the instructions say BLO, that means crochet in the back loop only of each stitch from now on. This creates a very pretty ribbed effect and makes a nice, cushy fabric.

To crochet this, you will sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next ch, (sc in next 7 chs, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 7 chs, sk 2 chs) across to the last 2 chs, sk 1 ch, sc in last ch.

Row 2 and all other rows: Ch 1, turn. Working in the BLO, sc in first sc, sk next sc, (sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sk 2 sc) across to the last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc.

That's all there is to it. Use a little math and pre-planning and you can make anything from a scarf to a wrap to an afghan.

Here's some starting multiples for you:

4 sc on sides: Multiple 11 + 3
5 sc on sides: Multiple 13 + 3
6 sc on sides: Multiple 15 + 3
7 sc on sides: Multiple 17 + 3
8 sc on sides: Multiple 19 + 3
9 sc on sides: Multiple 21 + 3
10 sc on sides: Multiple 23 + 3

See the pattern?

Abbreviations used:

ch: chain
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
BLO: Back Loop Only

I hope I wrote these clearly enough.